Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by FireAza, Apr 17, 2013.
Ah ha! So like this then?
yes, like that
Thanks for the tip Bad_Ad, you handsome son of a bitch! How does the current version of my idiot's schematic look to you? Any problems/suggestions?
Ill be honest, I find it extremely hard to follow - give me a schematic any day.
But assuming your pins are correct on the mini din, seems OK at a glance to me.
I see no composite video and/or C-sync being brought out...
Thats a good point, listen to him.
Probably want some power for scart switching and putting the TV into RGB mode too.
I'm exactly the oppisite, I feel much more confident now, though that might just be because I've been knee-deep in the thing and now understand the circuit much better. But either way, I find that when diagrams have photos of what I will be working with, I'm much better able to understand what I will be doing. Like when i installed the modchip in my PS2, the instructions were nothing more than photos of various areas of the board, with certain solder points highlighted and tagged with a letter, telling me I should done solder th' thar wire to th' point y'all. Really easy to understand.
Assuming that these are only necessary for a composite signal, then they can kindly go straight to Hell
Back on the subject of wiring, here's a less wire-tastic version of my idiot's schematic. It's a little bit harder to follow, since all the components are so close together, but it gives you an idea if my plans for the real thing.
Does everything still look golden, or have I screwed something up?
You need composite video or c-sync, else you wont get a picture.
You also need some power too, so the TV will auto change channel and actually use RGB mode too.
Dang it. Okay, since C22 of the expansion slot is composite sync, do I just run a wire from that to pin 4 of the mini-DIN socket? Any extra components needed?
My TV doesn't have native SCART support (using a SCART to component converter box), so the auto channel switching won't work for me right? So the power thing is unnecessary?
Correct, scart switching and RGB mode will not be required.
csync is unamplified on the PCE far as I know, so its not suitable to use directly.
Does your convertor box support composite video as sync?
If it's the same one that I'm using (or a differently-branded box with the same innards, which I'm 99% sure it would be), then yes, it will accept C-Sync or composite video as a sync source.
I have used it with both successfully. With composite video on my console setup, and with C-sync on my MVS cab.
Id suggest using composite video then, as you can just run it as-is from the expansion port (assuming there is a connection there) or from the old point from the din you removed.
I'm not sure... But thinking back to my N64 RGB mod, I needed to output c-sync for that, and my N64 works perfectly with a SCART cable, so I'm assuming this means my converter box does support it.
Okay, here's an update with the wire for c-sync (it still feels dirty involving "composite" with an RGB mod! ), how's it look now?
c-sync isnt composite video.
c-sync is composite sync, which you cant use as its not amplified
I have two PC engine systems and would like to use the same rgb cable as i do for mega drive 2 i may check this out when i get some time.
Ah, I see. Okay, so I need to amplify the c-sync signel in order to use it for this mod? What's the process for that gonna involve?
You don't have to use composite sync, you can just use composite video as your sync signal and it'll work fine. I use composite video as sync on both my Duo-R and TG-16 and I haven't had any problems.
On the majority of hardware I've worked with produced prior to 1995 or so, 5v rules the TTL roost. But as time goes on 3.3v and 1.8v is starting to take over.
FWIW VCC/Vcc can also be refered to as Vdd and GND also can be called VSS. I have no idea where the naming nomenclatural differences come from but you'd do best to check datasheets and make a small chart to keep everything straight. Hell I have a hard time with it and I've been at this for 10+ years.
As for the sync discussion going on, I'm torn a bit. Personally I'd use a sync stripped on composite video and go from there. I've only worked with two TG-16 consoles and I'm assuming they're a somewhat different design from the PC Engine but both models suffered from an ugly hum bar on both RF and composite video. At the time I didn't have my Sony PVMs to test RGB with but I'd assume it was a design flaw (I also replaced the caps to see if that would help, it didn't).
Indeed, I was just saying that VCC doesnt mean 5v generally - like he was implying. VCC is just the power source pin, what ever that voltage might be - you need to check the datasheet.
Pre 1995 is old stuff - so I had that covered with my post
Oh, so I'd just need to do what I did in the above picture, but with pin A22 then? No extra components needed? What about what APE was talking about? Is that something you've experienced? Though, if his problem only shows up when the console is connected with either a RF or composite connection, that's no problem, since I'll be using RGB.
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