Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by FireAza, Jul 20, 2012.
Arent you looking on the wrong side of the board?
IIRC its on the back, your pictures are the front.
Most of the action happens on the other side, yes, but there's two points that you need to solder on the "B" side, which is the side I posted. Here's a diagram:
You're meant to peg the "CX" wire on the before last pin of the CXD9611 (SSBUS/HDD controller) chip. It's likely that the signal will be available at the other side of the board so you might want to follow it with a continuity meter.
The CXD9611? Assuming that there's suppose to be an "R" at the end, that would mean this chip is the one of the left in this photo:
There's no numbering on the board though! How am I suppose to know what leg is what number? :\ Count clockwise around the chip?
On that type of chip package pins are counted like this:
97 <stuff writen on the chip>
98 /\ (ball at the corner of the chip)
Some chip from Intel for you to have the idea of how the pin numbering works:
Wait, they're counted counterclockwise?! Why you got to be so illogical chip manufacturers? Okay, so in this case, second last leg on the CXD9611R would be this one, correct?
So I just solder the CX wire to that leg and all is well?
Yep. That's pretty much it.
Besides the cosmetic differences (well actually, the GH-007 was designed/made so they could use the surplus of older GS chips they had from the early PCMCIA consoles). GH-005 is the same thing as GH-007... It's a GH-004 board equipped with a metallic GS chip equipped instead of the epoxi chip...
What that mean is that if you follow the traces to the actual chips you will see the modchips aways peg into the exact same pins of the exact same chips regardless of any changes on the boards.
Yes, now that I look at the installation diagram, I can see that the solder point is connected to the second last leg, so that makes sense now! Thanks! Just an FYI, this new board is a GH-006, not a GH-007
In terms of soldering to a contact that's connected to that pin, I suspect the pad with the question mark is one of them. Following the trace with my eyes, it appears to lead to that pad. I've used my multimeter to try to confirm this and I *think* they're connected. I say "think" because I've only started using a multimeter recently So here's what happening, my multimeter (when set to connectivity) reads "1" when the circuit is broken and "001" when it's complete. When I test the connection between the second last leg and that pad, I get "001", so all good right? Well, when I test the neighboring legs, I also get a response from the multimeter, though it quickly falls back to "1". It's the fact that there's a response from the multimeter when I touch a leg that shouldn't be connected is what's confusing me here, since I figure that since I'm getting a response, there must be SOME connectivity happening.
That "1" means "infinite" as the resistance measurable at the air is out of scale for that instrument.
Good to see you're progressing on your project
Edit: I was commenting that they made the GH-007 board to allow them to put out the enormous batch of 2.0v (earlier) GS chips they produced for the earlier PS2 design (SCPH-10000). The metallic GS consumes more current and works at a higher voltage so the motherboard design is different.
Ah I see, that makes sense.
What's your thoughts on why I'm getting a response, however brief, for a connection that shouldn't be, well, connected? Do you think that the spot I've marked is connected to the second last leg like I suspect?
It should be connected. That trace comes from the IOP chip and is one of the IOP clock outputs. I think there's 33mhz at that pin (PCM clock for 44khz sampling multiplied by two). The HDD interface chip won't operate without that clock. Because Chinese are cheap bastards they decided that them saving a few cents on a clock oscillator at the chip board is worth the hassle of a few extra wires. That's one of the reasons I hate modchips so much. Even more, the fake ones.
Pieces of crap, really ... lol
Yeah, but from everything I read, the ModBo 4.0 is suppose to be the best PS2 modchip :\
Would the reason why I'm seeing a brief connection on my multimeter is something like because all the legs are "connected", there's a brief response, but because it's not a direct, solid connection like the second last leg, the multimeter will quickly go back to reading no connection?
Explain to me HOW CAN a CLONE of a Matrix Infinity mod chip be any better than the original/real thing ? Pirates are greedy fuckers so they like cheap trash. Maybe that's why the modbo trash is "so dear" to them. It works and is cheap. Anyway, nowadays you can't get a new real Matrix Infinity modchip so I suppose a Modbo is the only thing one can get.
The other readings you get are due to small electric current flowing through the chipset internals to the point where the other probe is connected to. Don't worry about that as it's normal.
If you get a strong "0 ohm" reading from the point you are probing to the pin on the chip, it's the correct pin.
I think you got the point toward the end - you cant buy the originals anymore. The modbos are the best (of whats still available now).
Your alternatives are mars pro - which cant save settings, etc and is a DMS clone.
Yeah, I too had heard that you can't get the Matrix chips anymore, so we're kinda hard-up for choice But in addition to that, the ModBo 4.0 seems to be strongly recommended, and it has a lot of good features.
Anyway, at this point, I'm gonna wait for a set of soldering iron tips to arrive. I figure it would be much easier if I were using a thin tip, since the alternative with the default tip is I might accidentally desolder a neighboring wire while trying to solder the next wire
I can't stress enough, you should practice on some old dead PC motherboard before attempting to solder on the PS2.
Seriously, you should be extremely experienced before attempting the PS2
Well, I've got much better equipment (better soldering iron (with a working tip!), flux and magnifying helping hand with light) now, and I've learned a lot from my last attempt (better ways of soldering to the legs etc), so I'm feeling pretty confident. Really, my biggest issue from last time was I couldn't get the wires to stick to the legs, which was probably due to my foolish attempts to make the soldering iron tip finer by filing it down. This resulted in the also foolish idea of applying solder to the legs, which resulted in the bridging, and finally, bent legs from pushing too hard while trying to solder wick the excess solder off (probably because the filed down tip wasn't able to transfer enough heat to the wick to make it work).
The new plan is to tin the wires, as before, only this time with flux, since I was having issues getting the solder to bond to the wire last time. I'll also be soldering to the top the the legs instead of trying to solder along the length of the leg, which is kinda tricky, since it's very hard to keep the wire perfectly parallel. This means I won't be needing to make these wires to a 180 bend since the wires will be coming in a straight line from the modchip.
So, this comment basically says - "the issue with my last attempt at soldering was soldering" lol
Yes I agree. Also I think we should start somewhere.
Don't get discouraged with us making fun of you, we're just trying to cheer you up, fireaza. \o/
Again, find some scrap and play with it until you feel confident you can solder the PS2 without damaging it. The knowledge you need is basically learn how the solder behave while it's welding. So any board with SMDs and preferably Quad Flat Pack (QFP) chips will help greatly.
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