SUPER NINTENDO Missing large cap

Discussion in 'Repair, Restoration, Conservation and Preservation' started by lord of time, Dec 5, 2017.

  1. lord of time

    lord of time Member

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2017
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi there, I recently purchased a faulty US NTSC SNES upon power up it displayed wavey lines long ways accross the screen... so I took the machine apart to give it a good cleaning and discoverd the massive cap under the metal shiled at the back had been pulled out... pulled out becasue it still had parts of the legs in the holes!!! anyway just out of curiosity i soldered a smaller cap in there and now I get a steady screen with the odd line of glitched pixels stull no game though - I am wondering if I put the right value cap in there will this thing spring to life? and as such what is the right value cap?
     
  2. dibmem

    dibmem Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2015
    Messages:
    46
    Likes Received:
    13
    The console5 wiki should have the board revision of your SNES model, cap locations, and correct / accurate cap values:
    https://console5.com/wiki/SNES
     
  3. lord of time

    lord of time Member

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2017
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    ok i need a 1000uf at 25v unfortunately i dont have any of those in my parts boxes... is there anything else i can use in its place?
     
  4. dibmem

    dibmem Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2015
    Messages:
    46
    Likes Received:
    13
    Needs to be 1000uf (do not alter that value) - Higher voltage is safe (i.e. 35v), but not lower.
    * Edit - I don't recall if going up to 50v is okay or not - Hope someone else can chime in here.
    * Edit 2 - More info on that cap here: https://assemblergames.com/threads/q-recapping-consoles-with-solid-polymer-caps.61412/
    (Someone used a 1000uf / 16v cap - not personally recommending that, but it looks like it could be safe.)
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2017
  5. eb1560

    eb1560 <B>Site Supporter 2014</B>

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2014
    Messages:
    61
    Likes Received:
    24
    If that website states the console’s reservoir capacitor is 1000 uF (electrolytic), in this particular application, you can use a higher valued capacitor - the SNES isn’t a power-hungry console so no need to go overboard; be mindful that a higher ripple current value is a better choice. The capacitor ought to be rated for at least 25v, and have a lead spacing of 5mm (iirc) to sit flush on the board. Placing a bulk capacitor back on the board would restore proper electrical functionality, if the console is still having issues then the problem is likely elsewhere.


    ;) electrolytic polymer cap, different rating scheme than electrolytic.
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2017
  6. lord of time

    lord of time Member

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2017
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    ok i have replaced the cap and now i get either a dark green screen with the odd pixel or block or a black screen with pixel courptions at the left edge of the screen... the console will not run the game and just sits at these screens until i power off.
     
  7. Ergot_Cholera

    Ergot_Cholera Keep your shirt on.

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2012
    Messages:
    307
    Likes Received:
    33
    US SNES consoles don't normally have that capacitor fitted anyway do they? Super Famicoms do and PAL SNES consoles have a 2200uF in that position.
     
  8. Pikkon

    Pikkon "Moving in Stereo"

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2005
    Messages:
    2,628
    Likes Received:
    40
    US boards and SFC sport a 1000uf cap but some don't even have it but if you fit one in it's not going to hurt it.

    As for the wavy lines it's usually the smaller caps or a bad psu.
     
  9. lord of time

    lord of time Member

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2017
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    definately not PSU as I have tried a 3 different ones that power up my other snes and sfc just fine... so smaller caps then i guess!!!
     
  10. eb1560

    eb1560 <B>Site Supporter 2014</B>

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2014
    Messages:
    61
    Likes Received:
    24
    What board revision are you using, and are you powering the console with or without the rear heatsink installed (grounding)? Have you probed around the board with any test equipment (multimeter or o'scope)?
     
  11. lord of time

    lord of time Member

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2017
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Its a SNS-CPU-GPM-01 and i have the heatsink installed, I have probed the 7805 and that is taking in and putting out as it should be.
     

Share This Page