PS2 laser coil question

Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by ASSEMbler, Apr 6, 2016.

  1. NeC5552

    NeC5552 All your skullz are belong to us.

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    Well,then how come my HD7 laser works like it should,when my v9 was designed to use a 400C? The EEPROM reprogramming did work then. Unless the laser is the servo (I guess) so then it allows replacing it.

    As for the v11 - I saw some pictures over the internet with a different laser assembly of the v11. Here's one. Maybe you can find out what laser is this.
     

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  2. sp193

    sp193 Site Soldier

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    Controlling the CD/DVD drive has a lot of parameters, which fall across the various areas that I mentioned earlier. Most of the parameters that affect the optical block itself, seem to fall under the "servo" category.
    Changing the console's configuration for the optical block model is actually done with a command issued via the MECHACON's serial link, but lenschanger just writes in values from somebody's console.

    Thanks. That looks different indeed.
    But without any markings, I don't think that it would be easy to identify it.
     
  3. NeC5552

    NeC5552 All your skullz are belong to us.

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    Then how does Lenschanger actually write the values on the laser? And exactly how does my HD7 work now even though the console was designed for a 400c?
     
  4. sp193

    sp193 Site Soldier

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    It writes to the EEPROM. If you're confused about what's there, just remember that all parameters for the CD/DVD drive are in there and can be rewritten.
    Everything else is protected. Hence the only practical thing that the hackers/pirates couldn't do anymore, was to change the IDs (i.Link and console ID).

    The region parameters (all Dragon chips are the same across all regions) are also likely stored there, so you can tell why SONY has strengthened security around the EEPROM managament functions.

    You used lenschanger on it, so it is now configured for a SF-HD7.
     
  5. americandad

    americandad Familiar Face

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    Which one is objectively better? Hd7 or 400c?
     
  6. NeC5552

    NeC5552 All your skullz are belong to us.

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    Depends. I had luck with HD7s generally,though I did use a KHS-400C in very good condition on a chipped v7,SCPH-39003.

    But to really answer your question,I'd say HD7s are better,especially the open faced ones.
     
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  7. sp193

    sp193 Site Soldier

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    If you replace the optical block without calibration, you are assuming (and hoping) that the calibration (i.e. radial skew, tangential skew and gain) for the old optical block fits the new one.
    So if you tried different optical blocks on one console without calibration, I wouldn't think that it was really a fair test.
     
  8. NeC5552

    NeC5552 All your skullz are belong to us.

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    Not really. I actually calibrated them each so I could test CD-R media. For a fact I know that a non-calibrated HD7 on a console that previously used a 400C will not read CDs of any kind at all,only DVDs. I think same goes the other way but I haven't tested that one.
     
  9. sp193

    sp193 Site Soldier

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    It's not just about setting a console to use the right optical block and lens, but you actually have to put test discs in the console, connect the test jig to the MECHACON and connect a PC to the MECHACON via RS232C.
    You would then calibrate the console's radial and tangential skew (MECHAnism adjustment), as well as the gain (ELECTric circuit adjustment).

    Although you're probably right about the SF-HD7 being better, as they probably wouldn't have gone with it if it was worse.
     
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  10. NeC5552

    NeC5552 All your skullz are belong to us.

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    By skew you mean the white adjustable plastic wheels? I do it manually.
     
  11. sp193

    sp193 Site Soldier

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    If you did that with the right tools, that's great!
     
  12. NeC5552

    NeC5552 All your skullz are belong to us.

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    By hand,untill I found the sweet spot for the laser. It's trial and error,but in the end it works fine. And according to Eurasia,that's what the plastic wheels on the assembly do,adjust the sled height. As for the screw on the laser (the small Torx/star-shaped one),that doesn't need any modification. Just pop the laser in,run lenschanger,fiddle with the wheels until you find the sweet spot,and you're done. It's a bit easier on the v4-v7 since those use only one wheel instead of two like on the v9-v11.
     
  13. sp193

    sp193 Site Soldier

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    Without measuring equipment, there's no way to determine whether you've achieved the lowest jitter possible. :/
    But well, I guess that whatever works... just works right? lol

    All (only fat?) consoles, except for the B-chassis models (SCPH-30001 GH-004/005), have the adjustment screws for tangential and radial skew. That "white cog" adjusts the tangential skew.
    The B-chassis only has the adjustment screw for tangential skew, while radial skew is adjusted with the auto-tilt motor.
     
  14. NeC5552

    NeC5552 All your skullz are belong to us.

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    Yup,I just got it to work as it should. I think that I set the wheels in such positions so they're even,and the PS2 began reading pretty much all discs without problems.

    And a fact,for l_oliveira: I looked up a v9 PS2 box - v9s onwards DO support RW.

    Here's a photo. Notice the RW sign just before the "ZZZ" sign for lower noise. (which is actually true,I barely hear the fan.)
     

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    Last edited: Jul 10, 2016
  15. sp193

    sp193 Site Soldier

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    I hate to bump an old thread, but because I cannot edit such an old post: I don't think the GH-011 model exists. At least because we don't seem to have any information on one.

     

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