PC Engine Duo RGB mod help

Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by digitalia, Feb 11, 2017.

  1. digitalia

    digitalia I will take the bullet for this one...

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    IMG_1515.JPG So I believe I have everything hooked up to the RGB amp I bought from Mickcris (8 pin DIN and amp) and I'm getting video output, but only one color.

    The wires look like they are all securely and correctly soldered to the 6260, but.. Nada. If I desolder the red or the blue, I still get video output, but it's fuzzy and green. Solder them back and it's a clear green picture.
    IMG_1517.JPG

    I checked with a magnifying glass to make sure there are no bridges (a zoomed in iPhone photo looks like there's one on blue, but it's not actually touching the neighbor pin), but it doesn't look like there is.

    Using 30AWG wire in case that matters.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2017
  2. CkRtech

    CkRtech Spirited Member

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    Despite what you said about bridging, perhaps you could try to make your red and blue wires look more like your green one on the C6260? Check your continuity between pins with a multimeter. Check Red to ground and blue to ground.

    You could also try to do one at a time. Desolder blue. Resolder red. Check all connections (chip to amp, amp to plug, wire to plug, etc).
     
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  3. digitalia

    digitalia I will take the bullet for this one...

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    Looks like that's my only option at this point :p These little pins... they may be the death of me.

    May also re-do the DIN connector. The back three pins for RGB should be a little loose because they aren't connected to the board, right?
     
  4. mickcris

    mickcris Site Supporter 2014,2015

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    looks like you could use some extra flux. it makes it much easier to get cleaner joints. this is the stuff i have been using recently
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/151940351839

    also it looks like you might be using stranded wire. solid wire makes it easier too on those pins.

    the RGB pins on the DIN should be a loose on the back because, as you said, they are not connected on both sides like the other 5 pins.
     
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  5. digitalia

    digitalia I will take the bullet for this one...

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    Thanks for the tips! I'll work on desoldering the red and blue and using more flux. I've got something similar to that, mickcris already, but that's a good price!
     
  6. rama

    rama Gutsy Member

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    There a definitely solder bridges in that picture.
    If you find it too hard to solder to the IC pins, maybe you can find easier spots elsewhere?
     
  7. digitalia

    digitalia I will take the bullet for this one...

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    IMG_1519.JPG Yeah, I had to look again. I took everyone's advice and just did the solder job over again.

    Success!
     
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  8. digitalia

    digitalia I will take the bullet for this one...

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    Basically, I broke the 2 rules of modding: Work slow and don't be stupid.

    Thanks again for the sanity check, everyone.
     
  9. Pikmin

    Pikmin Resolute Member

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    Yeah that photo you posted I can see the red is bridged on the pins on both sides and blue looks like it might be bridged on one side too
     
  10. digitalia

    digitalia I will take the bullet for this one...

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    Yeah, but up close it didn't look like it (and it was my fourth time resoldering these. First time I was getting an all red picture!), so I just made the assumption that it wasn't it. Alas... I did a dumb.

    At least it's all good now! Next, gotta region mod this thing because it came pre-modded and it's... awful and spotty. 16508364_10154620202132562_2784662039921295523_n.jpg
     
  11. Pikmin

    Pikmin Resolute Member

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    If you are not sure nothing beats a multimeter, set it to continuity and just check the adjoining pins. It will take you a minute to check all three wires :)
     
  12. digitalia

    digitalia I will take the bullet for this one...

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    Definitely! Which reminds me.. need to buy a new 9V for my multimeter.
     
  13. Pikmin

    Pikmin Resolute Member

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    Good luck with the modding
     
  14. voultar

    voultar Rapidly Rising Member

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    That's a TurboZoneDirect E-bay special, isn't it?

    I've repaired a few of those, in my day..
     
  15. digitalia

    digitalia I will take the bullet for this one...

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    Wow, so they are that notorious, huh?

    Yeah, that region mod prevents the hu-card from being read 9 out of 10 times and it looks like he wired the power switch directly to the breadboard (and I have no idea where the switch is soldered to on the board).

    I ordered the region mod board from GameTech-US to replace the breadboard. He glued the PCB to the Hu-Card slot right over one of the screws I needed to remove, so I gently snapped the board off.
     
  16. voultar

    voultar Rapidly Rising Member

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    [​IMG]

    I've repaired/restored several of these craptastic TurboZone-Direct Duo's. The high quality chong capacitors is the finishing touch.
     
  17. digitalia

    digitalia I will take the bullet for this one...

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    Dear mother of fugly.

    Do you know where I would wire the power switch on the back of the unit once I completely remove that eye sore? The only thing I'm keeping on the board from his is his grounded of pin 29. The only thing that was done well :p
     
  18. voultar

    voultar Rapidly Rising Member

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    No, that's not done well, either.

    [​IMG]

    Short pin 29 to pin 30 (gnd) and avoid all of that silly ridiculous shit.

    I'm not sure what you mean by power switch? You mean the region switch?
     
  19. digitalia

    digitalia I will take the bullet for this one...

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    On my pic where you can see the breadboard, you see those three thick yellow wires? Those are wired directly to a ON-OFF switch on the back. I've never owned a PC engine (duo or otherwise, only a TG-16 as a kid), so I assumed it system with a toggle power on the back and on the front, kind of like a PlayStation 2/3/4.
     
  20. voultar

    voultar Rapidly Rising Member

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    That On/On switch doesn't control power to the system.

    If the switch is in one position, it ties the output selection pin on the multiplexer high making the databus go D0,D1,D2,D3,D4,D5,D6,D7. If the switch is in the other position, it ties the selection pin on the multiplexer low which inverts the data bus to D7,D6,D5,D4,D3,D2,D1,D0. This is what region protection (for the most part is) for the PC-E and TG16. They simply inverted the databus pins on the Hu-Card slot for the US systems.
     

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