HDMI Nintoaster Project! (Work in progres)

You know what would look cool.
If you used some of those flame like leds inside the toaster, so it looks like fire!

Or just some red and orange leds super low current to emulate the heating elements

 

Yes! This was planned all along, there will be a potentiometer on the side of the unit, that will regulate the LED's brightness
However currently that wiring is killing me...

 

So here is a video of the problem.
I do get a picture, but it crashes a few seconds in.
The game I am trying to run is abadox (Cause I was told it was great for testing).
Is this a CPU/PPU issue, or is it the connectors fault?

I have tried to remove both the CPU and PPU, clean all the contacts and carefully place them again.

 

I wonder if extending the cartridge connector is adding resistance that the system doesnt like. Maybe measure resistance between cart connector and the motherboard? Have you checked for continuity to make sure there are no cold solder joints?

 

Try adding another earth wire between the -ve input pad on the hi-def NES board and the NES board groundplane.

 

Thank you for the input!
There seem to be no difference in resistance from connector to board at all.
I have checked for continuity, from connector to board, and it all works fine, no bridges or anything.
There are no cold solder on the board or connector, all of the joints looks nice and shiny.

Should I add an extra ground wire to the ground terminal on the board?
The one in the left corner?

 

Went through alot of troubleshooting today.
I desoldered the entire catridge connector, and mounted the original 72pin one.
To my surprise the system still gave me an error..

I had an famicom board laying around, I decided to desolder the CPU and change it on the board.
I went ahead and changed the crystal as well.
System is now fully operational again.

However I will have to redo the entire cartridge connector once more.
This time I will try some IDE cables..

*This project is driving me crazy

 

It's probably a good idea - in the normal installation that ground wire is hooked to what used to be the center pin of the 7805 regulator and is hence grounded to the main board groundplane. It should still work even without it since there are ground connections in the FFCs, but I found there was quite a bit more noise on the signals just using that.

 

AFAIK you can control the volume with different values of resistors. I think I personally used something other than 56k so it would be quieter, but I don't recall the value I used

 

I have a couple of other resistors at hand I could try.
What value is optimal you think?

 

Honestly I'm not sure what I used at this point. I think most people say 56k is pretty optimal, but a bit higher may be fine too. Lower ohms will be louder, so 24k for instance will likely way overpower the other audio channels.