gcvideo - Open source GameCube component cable solution

Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by darcagn, Aug 31, 2014.

  1. zeldaxpro

    zeldaxpro Active Member

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    @pr0cess0r Alright I will check continuity from the pins of the M25P40 to the FPGA. Yes board is powered from gamecube as I have it connected for JTAG. I do not think it is a hardware issue or chip issue because when I did the LCSOFT Direct SPI method that @happy_bunny has on his website, I get this:

    [​IMG]

    ^^ If there was a hardware issue, wouldn't of it just failed and not even recognized the board at all? Even though that this programming method didn't seem to work despite it being "successful", It clearly shows that the SPI was detected (as far as I know). @citrus3000psi @kreg @Unseen @happy_bunny any suggestions?

    Maybe its the Xilinx Programmer? I am thinking of trying Direct SPI in IMPACT 11.x, maybe that will work.
     
  2. citrus3000psi

    citrus3000psi Housekeeping, you want towel?

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    I think you have the device programmed properly with the spi method. At this point I would be checking each pin one by one. I have had an instance where a single pin was not making contact on the hdmi connector.

    Do you have a microscope? something with more than 100x magnification to verify each pin?
    Is the orientation correct on the xilinx chip?

    FYI you don't even need the FPGA installed to do the SPI flash. Only the M25P40 can be installed. So you might have some pins messed up on the FPGA or HDMI connector.


    Just some ideas.
     
  3. zeldaxpro

    zeldaxpro Active Member

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    @citrus3000psi I do have a digital USB Microscope. I checked all the connections on FPGA and HDMI, looked good with no bridges. If you seen from the previous post that @pr0cess0r talked about, he stated that 2.2v on PIN 1 means not programmed correctly, 3.3v (3.4v) means programmed correctly. When I got the SPI device not found I started to troubleshoot with my multimeter. I discovered that the M25P40 Flash Chip MOSI Pin is not connected to the FPGA leg:

    [​IMG]

    There is no continuity from the board itself (I tested on a blank board). Could this be the big issue? Could this finally be it? I think it would explain why the LCSOFT method recognized the Flash Chip, but the JTAG method did not (as that pin is not connected to the FPGA). Any thoughts on this? Thanks everyone for your help I really appreciate it!
     
  4. pr0cess0r

    pr0cess0r Spirited Member

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    Maybe you damaged the trace when soldering the spi wires. you should be able to repair it. According to the diagram it must be connected.
     
  5. happy_bunny

    happy_bunny Rising Member

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    Yes that would explain the blank screen the fpga will not be configured without that track connected. It would be like the flash is not actually fitted from the fpga's point of view.
     
  6. pr0cess0r

    pr0cess0r Spirited Member

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    I have a question for you. How do you solder the PFGA ?? drag solder, solder paste hot air, solder paste reflow oven?
     
  7. zeldaxpro

    zeldaxpro Active Member

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    @citrus3000psi @pr0cess0r @kreg @happy_bunny @Unseen Hey everyone so it looks I am back with an update and I have made progress. However, looks like I have another issue. So I hooked up the MOSI pin from the flash chip back to the FPGA pin, and it looks like I get 3.41v on PIN 1 :D. However, When I have it connected to the gamecube, hdmi connected, power on the GC, I get detection for HDMI, but then it grays out. When I shut off the power you can see it flicker from on and grayed out. I have a video showing this:



    Keep in mind from post #451 when I had the issue of 2.2v, I stated that the HDMI shows up, but no signal. But it never grayed out at all (as far as I know):

    Multimeter Pics showing the PIN 1, 5v reg, and 1.2v readings:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I have a zoomed in picture of the HDMI pins. Some of them look really close call if they are bridged. Maybe some flux and hot air will help? Pic:

    [​IMG]

    This issue happens when JP1 is open, 4.7k Resistor attached, or a 4.7uF Capacitor attached. Does anyone know what the issue could be this time? I have come so far and I am not giving up on this! Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2016
  8. happy_bunny

    happy_bunny Rising Member

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    Can you flash the latest files from here

    https://github.com/ikorb/gcvideo/tree/master/HDL/gcvideo_dvi/bin

    Also check csel line it looks like the clocks connected but csel is not changing.

    Edit:

    Actually I would check all the digital port lines are going to the fpga pads is that board from OSH park it looks green ?
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2016
  9. zeldaxpro

    zeldaxpro Active Member

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    @happy_bunny Ok I will try to flash the latest file. Do you think you can make a .bin file for the 2.3 for the LCSOFT Method? Just in case I have to do it that way if the JTAG does not work. What pin is the CSEL line on the FPGA?

    [​IMG]

    ^^ is CSEL Pin 3 on the GC Digital Port board, connected to PIN 5 on the FPGA respectively? I will take a look. Am I looking for continuity?

    [​IMG]

    ^ I will also check continuity between the Digital Port pins and FPGA to see if everything is connected. Anything else I should check for that might be causing this issue? @citrus3000psi @kreg @Unseen @pr0cess0r anything you guys might suggest? I appreciate all your help!
     
  10. pr0cess0r

    pr0cess0r Spirited Member

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    since you have all 22 pins soldered and it load the config i would try other tv hdmi cable or gc. Mine did the same thing when its on ir detect cable but no signal.
     
  11. zeldaxpro

    zeldaxpro Active Member

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    @pr0cess0r I can try that as well but we far as I know all my gamecube work fine, as well as the HDMI cable I am using.
     
  12. happy_bunny

    happy_bunny Rising Member

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    yes

    yes, I wonder if the board got any more missing tracks,

    will try I busy this week but if I get time I will email you the files, happy xmas everyone :)
     
  13. pr0cess0r

    pr0cess0r Spirited Member

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    @jmmk1995 if you need a bin file let me know i have impact 10 and can make it.
     
  14. zeldaxpro

    zeldaxpro Active Member

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    @pr0cess0r that would be awesome if you could! It would be the latest version 2.3 for the XCS200a FPGA Chip. The bin would come in handy in case I can't flash with the JTAG method. If you can make one please just attach it to a post or PM me with it. Thanks I would appreciate it!
     
  15. pr0cess0r

    pr0cess0r Spirited Member

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    send me a link to the version you want the last i see is 3 months old.
     
  16. citrus3000psi

    citrus3000psi Housekeeping, you want towel?

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    @jmmk1995 here is the bin file I flash to my devices. Its the latest from @Unseen git for the Shuriken v3. I can confirm it works.
     

    Attached Files:

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  17. pr0cess0r

    pr0cess0r Spirited Member

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    @citrus3000psi its the same file i used so nothing is more up to date!

    I will order your new pcb with qsb and parts and try to build a new one!
     
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  18. pr0cess0r

    pr0cess0r Spirited Member

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    Here is the bom for the two board from Citrus3000psi design minus the FPGA that i dont buy at digikey!
     

    Attached Files:

  19. zeldaxpro

    zeldaxpro Active Member

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    @citrus3000psi @pr0cess0r @happy_bunny Thanks everyone for your help I greatly appreciate it! I am going to be working on the V3 more this week to see if I can fix that HDMI isuee with some more troubleshooting. I will keep everyone updated on here. Thanks again!
     
  20. zeldaxpro

    zeldaxpro Active Member

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    @citrus3000psi @pr0cess0r @happy_bunny Just coming with an update on the situation. I...FINALLY...DID...IT!! I reprogrammed the board using JTAG, used the same HDMI cable as before, put a 4.7uF capacitor over JP1, turned on the TV and GC, detected, and BOOM WORKING!! Here is a video:



    ^^ So it looks like the issue all along was the MOSI Pin not hooked up. That explained all the issues with the FPGA and flash chip communication, programming, 2.2v, etc. Only thing left to do is enable audio over the HDMI (as its using the analog red and white audio right now), and just test it out by playing for some hours. I REALLY APPRECIATE EVERYONES HELP!! This has been a crazy journey over the past few months, and I am literally 99% there. I will keep everyone updated! :D
     
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