Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by darcagn, Aug 31, 2014.
If i whas you i would try to prog a .bin file with a diy lpt spi prog. I think you are almost there!
Can a Xilinx programmer, with either Impact or some other software, program a .bin?
If you detect the xilinx chip then you are un jtag mode so you shoulf not jump jp1 and then you will be able to prohgram the spi flash indirectly if you jump jp1 then jtag is not possible anymore and that why it fail.
If you want to use direct spi programming first make sure that you are correctly wired then jump jp1 and power the board. You will need impact 12.1 or older to have direct spiprogramming option. Im downloading it now and will try to share ity with you.
Here is a small guide:
connect xilinx interface
power the board with JP1 closed and follow those step in impact:
Thank you pr0cess0r. That appears to be what I have done. This is helpful to review.
I am wondering if my physical installation method is bad.
I completely remove the original Digital A/V socket. I desolder all remaining solder from the gamecube mainboard holes left from the removed socket. At this point, I see light through all 22 holes.
I then lay the Shuriken bottom 3d casing on the gamecube, and then the Shuriken ontop of that. I aligned all the holes. I can now see light through both the mainboard and the shuriken holes. I stick resistor legs through each hole and solder the top shuriken pads by hand one at a time. I then solder the legs on the bottom side of the gamecube one at a time. I then cut the legs off.
Could this mean I am missing solder contact with the mainboard, in the middle of the sandwhiched area? Only the bottom of the gamecube mainboard is soldered, and the top of the shuriken.
if it succesfully verify then your problem is somewhere else. I receivwd all my parts from digikey and will receive my pcb thos week. I hope it will work out for me!
look like a good idea but in hole is not fully filled at the top side maybe there is a bad contact if one of the hole got damaged in the procces.
if you get good power, ground and controller wire maybe you can try to get the osd to display it will tell you if the shuriken work. i dont know.
My QSB for the Digital AV port arrived today, just tried it out on a faulty motherboard to see how it fits. I was worried about bridges, as the dimensions are very tight, but everything seems to check out OK and the only thing I need to change is make it slightly narrower as the edge of the board just hits the filters going to U6.
Finished my first shuriken V3. I must say that the FPGA soldering is not so hard but hdmi is harder to solder in place. I will program it tomorrow and try to install it!
I dont know how i will mount it to the gamecube port. i think i will use hdd ide cable
Afther lots and lots of work it dont work. It boot since i get about 3V on pin 1 at gamecube and if i remove the flash rom i get .8V. Si i think it load the software. but nothing on the tv.
I look for any short but cant see anything .
Do i need to put the cap at jp1 or not ??
any idea ??
the bin file i get to program it is 146 Ko is this normal?? i padded with FF to 512 but the chip is 8x512 why my programmer did not pad it all ?
im a little disapointed now.
The idea behind the cap across jp1 is to delay the fpga startup time a little. Giving the board more time to settle into a stable state before the fpga reads the flash.
So yes add it see if it helps, what's the state of the done pin?
1. If done pin is the pin 1 on the gamecube digital port then it goes high.
2.can you confirm the polarity of C7 and JP1 pleas
3. if i only power the board can i expect the hdmi signal to be detected by my TV?
4.with all my test now my gamecube power led only flash one time and wont stay on.
No its pin54 on the fpga, sorry to be the bringer of bad news but I think you just killer your cube :-( any shorts on the digital av port lines will kill your cube and it will not switch on properly :-(
i will remove the shuriken and test the gc. If its dead i will re check my board and try on other gc. And will try with wires pin is very hard.
So i can test on pin 1 of the jtag for the done pin?
Split up the task into three parts, first power the boards from 3.3 volts then program it and check the done pin it's connected to r2 make sure it goes high. Next wire up 3.3 volts the 12 volt and c sel and clk then connect the tv you should get snow.
Finally and carefully solder up the data lines check nothing is shorted power up you should see a picture on the TV.
I found 2 big mistake from myself.
1. 3.3V shorted to ground on the fpga ( whas not at the begening but with all my test.
2. R2 and R3 in the wrong direction.
so tonight i will test with 2 wires to see if done pin work. then add other signal to see if i can get snow.
Thank you happy!
I get +-3.3V at R2 but no snow when other wires are connected do you think that it can be the gamecube? it turn on and work with composit video. Also with the shuriken connected there is some distorsion in the picture of the composit signal.
Resistor polarity/direction doesn't matter.
you see its possible to put resistor in the wrong direction!
But what im not sure is the polarity of C7 and JP1 not maly negative go to gnd
Ok no snow but does your tv say something like 480i ie it's getting a signal of a blank screen or is the screen blue and you get no signal at all ? Are you using the same fpga ? not sure if you damaged it putting those resistors in the wrong place.
yes its the same fpga but yes maybe its damaged i will try it on my othe gc. my tv detect no signal at all.
i hope the fpga is ok. its an fun but expensive projecr!
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