Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by darcagn, Aug 31, 2014.
I will. I plan on making the project open. But I can sell pre-populated boards.
@citrus3000psi f*cking awesome me likey good work dude.
I wonder if anyone will sell a VGA version of this.
GCVideo-DVI 2.2, now with:
Infrared remote support (alternative to Pad)
Wii support (don't even think about it unless you found that soldering the Paddata-Via on the Cube was really easy)
Oh, and no - I don't have any videos or screenshots available and I can't make them any time soon because my Dev-Wii is a wiring mess and the board is currently on the Cube for the final "did I break anything"-checks.
Got this soldered up last night, should have time to get it programmed and installed this weekend. Hoping it works
Very interested i nthis design !
Well if some one did make it and wanted to sell I'd be interested
I feel like a lot of people here myself included would purchase one.
If all goes well, I will sell kits. You'll still have solder this connector to the a/v port pins:
If I sell kits, I will redo this board, because these pads are pretty tiny.
I do plan on making the project open source as well.
Cool I want to get the mini HDMI footprint was thinking about using that on my board should reduce the PCB size by about 5mm hopefully. Be careful you dont short any of the gamecubes digital ports lines together or to gnd / vcc double check everything before you switich it on. I have killed to cubes doing that so be very careful first time round good luck !
Thanks for the heads up. I did get everything together. However I could not get the SPI programmer to start up in device manager. It just says unable to start the device with the driver you modified. Not sure if this is a windows 10 issue, or the programmer, since it was a cheap alliexpress buy.
oh pants :-( did you get a Lcsoft CY7C68013A (cypress FX2LP) Mini Board ? if so with J1 disconnected did you get the following in the windows control panel (cypress USB generic driver) ?
could it be possible to have the BOM for this amazing project? I know the main components, but for example which HDMI connector do I have to buy? Resistors and capacitors are 0805, 0603, or what else?
Thanks for your efforts, I really like the design.
That looks like a rather long cable, do you get any image artifacts/sparkling pixels/etc with that?
Yes I got the correct one. My JP1 is actually tied internally. After the programming I was going to cut the trace. Then install the cap. I did pull out my XP machine last night. I do have a parallel xilinx jtag programmer. It fails as well. Cant ID the chip. So there much be something wrong with the design, or one of the chips is bad (unlikely). I'll do a quick check again on the jtag/spi connections to verify everything is going to the correct pins...
I just checked the power/GND/JTAG pins on the design, and they are all correct. Perhaps the fab of the boards has something incorrect. I'll check for shorts and continuity tonight.
EDIT, I just went through the whole design again on paper and did not find anything wrong.
Here is my digikey cart http://www.digikey.com/short/3htz4j
I already had the .1uf caps (0603) so add those to the list. Also some of the quanities are higher than needed, since I plan on building 3 initially.
Haven't even got that far yet. I'm pretty much just using the cube for power at the moment until I get it programmed.
Thank you so much for the link.
I don't know if it can be useful to you, but I use a RPi with Raspbian and flashrom to program the M25P40 installed on the Shuriken. Just another way to do the job.
When you have time, could you post an image of the main pcb with respect to the cube, please? I'm so curious about the dimension, e.g. does the HDMI connector exit from the rear case?
I really appreciate your work, I hope you can resolve your issues.
yes the hdmi will exit the rear of the case. The pcb width is designed to fit exactly in this spot circled below:
The three holes will be use to mount the device to the metal shield. You will have to drill holes. I haven't cut into my case yet, because I want to the design working first, before I waste perfectly good case.
Very interesting project. Waiting for you progress then. Good luck!
@happy_bunny I've poured over my design and can't find anything wrong. I'm going to build another one and just cross my fingers. But I do have a question. Does the FPGA do some type of first start up initialization? With the design I built pin PROG_B is always held low until you cut the trace and solder the cap in. Should this pin be open at startup and then held low for programming?
I think it's better if you do like in the Shuriken PCB. You put a pull-up (e.g. 4k7) on pin 100, then a jumper between pin 100 and GND, and you close it only when you want to program the FPGA.
Just my 2 cents, though.
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