I’m the guy that happy_bunny was talking about, and I’m pleased to say that the board is working quite nicely! I received a populated board (minus the FPGA since you need a special license to ship them abroad) along with a 3D-printed case. The case is a nice touch, and makes it much safer to have than having a bare board stick out of the console. You can either choose the cheaper xc3S50a (which only does 480i), or spend an extra $10 for the xc3S200a (which allows for bob de-interlacing of 480i games if your TV can’t handle 480i). I’d say the xc3S200a is a no brainer, as a lot of TVs apparently cannot do 480i, and while bob de-interlacing isn’t always pretty, it has much lower latency compared to what your TV might do. Make sure you obtain one from a legitimate seller (DigiKey, Mouser, Farnell, etc.), as the ones on AliExpress and eBay tend to not have a traceable procurement procedure, which means you don’t know if the chips were properly stored, or if they are even real! Install: Installation is a lot trickier than your typical mod for two reasons: the FPGA soldering requires a fine-point soldering iron (or a reflow oven/hot air with solder paste), and getting the original digital port out is no easy task, as it requires either a good vacuum desoldering station, or a soldering iron with high thermal capacity paired with desoldering braid (Unseen mentioned ChipQuick - a low temperature solder alloy that'll keep the solder liquid for a while so parts can be removed easier - should work too!). There are tons of ground pins on a thick ground plane, which makes this a lot tougher than getting mask ROMs off of NES cartridges To tackle the FPGA soldering, I used a Metcal iron (at my university) paired with a fine-pitch tip to attach the FPGA on the board. No sweat; just check your connections! But then came the digital port removal, which was definitely the toughest part, and where I ran into the most problems (disclaimer: I’m not a professional modder and I don’t sell what I’ve soldered!). If you’re going to take it off with a vacuum tool, be warned that the pin diameter is a bit smaller than a typical through-hole pin, so generic tools may have some difficulty. I have the RadioShack desoldering iron, and the tips for those are too wide for this. So, my first thought was to add more solder and flux to the pins so the vacuum would have more to suck up, but what ended up actually happening was the solder was pushed into the pins I already worked on! It also stressed the board too much and ripped some traces on the GC PCB So what I ended up doing was turning my Weller iron up to 350C and using some desoldering braid to get the rest of the port out. That took care of it without any further casualties, and then I used some AWG 30 wire to bridge the connections to the digital chip. That seemed to fix it, but that was a mess! Going back to the pin thickness issue, there is actually no commercially-available pin header that will fit where the digital port connector was. What I did was use some breadboard jumper wire heads (by happy_bunny’s suggestion), line up a couple connections to make sure the board was evenly lined up, and solder away. It’s a little tricky at first, but not impossible. The most important thing to do is check your connections and that you have no shorts! Goes without saying, but it’s a bit more important in this case, as 12V is one of the connections used, and shorting that anywhere on the FPGA or GC data lines will probably fry one, the other, or both. That’s a bit of a long write-up for the install, but it’s important if you’re thinking about installing this yourself. Make sure you understand the problems aforementioned and that you know how to avoid them (e.g. don’t repeat my mistakes ) Results: Having never seen a GC in 480p, I am blown away! Metroid Prime looks much crisper, and especially since my TV has terrible de-interlacing, the onboard de-interlacing is a nice touch. My TV also has bad input latency for composite inputs, so this was a breath of fresh air. Definitely going to be playing more GameCube once I’m done with school Suggested Improvements: The most obvious issue that I think is worth noting is the board sticks out a fair bit (as other have mentioned), which means the GC needs to be handled a little more carefully when being moved around to not stress the PCB. Not much can be done about that since the FPGA and HDMI port take up 2/3rds of the length, but what I saw that could help is that the digital port has extra ground pins along the sides for added stability, which the Shuriken board could probably benefit from. However, happy_bunny mentioned he glued the case to the GC PCB to add a bit of stability, so that is a valid option too! If you’re willing to modify the GC case, you could add corner braces as well to make it a bit sturdier. What may be the best choice is to use a two-board solution: one board to bring the digital port pins further into the GC, and then use essentially the same board to make the HDMI connector flush with the output. But that’s a whole other thing to work out This wasn’t really a big deal, but I would move the CONN6 pin closer to the digital port pin-header. This would keep the install a little neater, but then again the case hides it! A big thanks to happy_bunny for all the help and guidance throughout the install process, as well as the parts!