Best PlayStation 1 model?

Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by ollidab, Apr 23, 2014.

  1. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    Well, the 1001 has a different video chip than the other two. I found from my 1000 and 5500 it looks better than my DTL-H30101 E and also 10000. The Brazil stage in Tekken 3 makes this most noticable IMO.
     
  2. la-li-lu-le-lo

    la-li-lu-le-lo ラリルレロ

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    What's different about the video chips? I found that the video output from the 9000 and 9001 units, as well as the 10000 and 50001 PS2 units looked pretty much the same. The 1001 was the only one that was noticeable better. The image from the 1001 is about as close to perfect as any system I've tried. I would almost say the same thing about all of the other models, but somehow the 1001 is still slightly better. With the 1001, if there's any noise, interference, color bleeding, etc., then it's imperceptible (at least to my eyes).
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2014
  3. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    Check the first page of this thread, there's plenty of posts about it. Machines earlier than SCPH-700* (I think) use the Sony CXA1645M.
     
  4. la-li-lu-le-lo

    la-li-lu-le-lo ラリルレロ

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    Okay, so according to what TriMesh said, the models with PU-7, PU-8, and PU-18 boards produce cleaner video. TriMesh also mentioned that the effect is fairly minor, which agrees with what I've experienced. I wonder if there are any differences between those 3 revisions. Also, is there any way to tell whether a SCPH-1001 is a PU-7 or a PU-8?

    I might need to do a comparison of audio quality between my Marantz CD5004 and the 1001.
     
  5. TriMesh

    TriMesh Site Supporter 2013-2017

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    The only real difference was that Sony made some major changes to the whole GPU area during the PU-8 run - they replaced the GPU with a new design, replaced the VRAM with SGRAM and also replaced the video DAC with a different type because the early version was designed to run from the read data port on the VRAM and the new one is driven directly by the GPU.

    I've personally never seen a SCPH-1001 with a PU-7 in it, but I've been told they exist. Really the only way you could tell would be to open the console up. If you are interested in video tests, then an early (with a -1x dash number on the PCB) should be identical in video terms to the PU-7 (the only changes on these boards were related to the CD controller).

    The things to check are that it has a Sony video DAC (CXD2923A), two VRAMs and the old CXD8514 GPU - if you get a PU-8 with these chips, then it has the same video circuits that the PU-7 had. If you actually want a PU-7, then the best place to get it is from a SCPH-1000.
     
  6. la-li-lu-le-lo

    la-li-lu-le-lo ラリルレロ

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    I see. I guess I'll have to open up my system, then. Is the board labeled as PU-7/PU-8 somewhere, or are the chips you mentioned the only way to tell?
     
  7. TriMesh

    TriMesh Site Supporter 2013-2017

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    Yeah, they are marked with "PU-7" or "PU-8" - you only need to check the numbers if you have a PU-8, since there were 3 different versions of it.
     
  8. samspin

    samspin Member

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    I've got a few different models

    I personally have an SCPH-1001, SCPH-1002, SCPH-5502, SCPH-7002, SCPH-7502- all modified. The only one not modified by me personally is the 5502. I did have an SCPH-9002 modified (not by me) that I have given away as I prefer models that have the parallel IO port! Ones I have modified personally use MM3 chips.
    Of all of these:
    SCPH-100* has horrid laser issues and squeaks. To make matters worse if the laser struggles during boot, the modchip mistimes sending the second authentication signal and you're left with a hang at the PS logo screen until you power off and try again. Also the MM3 chip does not support stealth for this version, so I had to add a switch to support anti-mod games. As I have two of these (one for each TV standard) I can say that neither can mix and match. You get black and white even on a LCD TV if you use the wrong standard (unless of course you use an RGB cable, but my TV only has one SCART socket, and it has too much daisy-chained to it already! Therefore colour over component is preferred!) Sometimes the CD drive misbehaves and tries to send the inserted disc into orbit if it can't read it by spinning ridiculously fast with an unpleasant laser clicking sound. Picture below is the SCPH-1001 modchip install (and is the neatest I did. I took this photo before adding a switch).
    [​IMG]

    SCPH-5502 is a lot more stable but still struggles with some burnt discs, resulting in stuttering FMV. The modchip in this one I believe is an Old Crow, I did not personally mod this one. Again this means no stealth, meaning an external switch is needed. Also the only way to get colour from NTSC games without RGB cable is to add an oscillator. I do have a pack of these but I want to brush up on my soldering skills before attempting to do this. I don't have a picture of this one as I didn't mod it personally but if I do try adding an oscillator, I will in the future take a picture.

    SCPH-7002 is the most stable I have and my favourite. No struggling laser whatsoever and clean FMV on all discs- original and burnt. Plus the MM3 chip I fitted supports stealth on this version, so no fiddly switches! It also has the 60hz mod to allow NTSC games to play in colour. I must say this was the hardest one to mod of the 4 consoles I have successfully personally modded so far, due to having to solder onto a tiny component pin, and directly onto a resister. At one point I bridged the resister with one below it with a blob of solder by accident, but managed to clean it off without further damage. I was amazed when the console not only still worked but was a successful install! So overall, a cumbersome modchip install process, but well worth the effort in the end. The picture below shows my efforts, using sellotape to avoid the wires pulling (not the neatest but at least it stays put). You can just about see the 60hz wire mod on the left but you can't see where I've lifted pin 157 on the GPU. I used a wire for this as I didn't want to solder directly across traces.
    [​IMG]
    SCPH-7502 is the second most stable I have. The laser struggles slightly on some burnt discs but overall works reasonably well. Again the MM3 chip supports stealth on this version, and I performed the 60hz mod on this one as well. It did once fail to boot a burnt disc and hang at the PS logo screen, but I put that down to my soldering rather than the console itself (I don't exactly have a steady hand and so the wires are longer than they need to be but I only recently got into soldering). I did place a new laser unit in this console but the issue remains, so I guess it is my soldering. You can just about see the 60hz wire mod on the right and I accidentally broke pin 157 off the GPU so this mod is irreversible now. Again I used a wire for this as I didn't want to solder directly across traces.

    [​IMG]

    So, overall, based on my experience, I recommend the SCPH-7002 model. Of course this is only a rough guide and there's many factors involved, including the fact I live in PAL land, and my (lack of) soldering skills. If you only use your PSX for playing audio CD's, go for the first model. But if you want a reliable gaming experience no matter what video cable you use, with the ability to use an external cartridge, go for the SCPH-7002 or 7502.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014
    Shane McRetro likes this.

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