Best PlayStation 1 model?

Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by ollidab, Apr 23, 2014.

  1. TriMesh

    TriMesh Site Supporter 2013-2017

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    It's from PU-20 onwards - PU-7 to PU-18 have the color subcarrier derived from the video mode clock (output from a pin on the GPU, and switching with the currently selected video mode) and PU-20 onwards take it directly from the frequency synthesizer, so it doesn't change with video mode. I don't think this is directly causing your interference issue, though - it sounds more likely that the monitor you are using simply doesn't like composite video as sync and the high frequency components are leaking from the sync channel into the video circuits.

    It depends on how the game is written - most 3D games use the root counters for timing, and they are clocked from the CPU clock, and hence will not change. Stuff that's locked to the frame rate (like 2D fighters) will actually run slightly slower - and although I can't personally notice it, some of my friends who play a lot of this sort of game can.
     
  2. Xan01

    Xan01 Active Member

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    Thanks for the answer. I use a BVM monitor, but the issue isn't limited to that - I've seen reports of the same thing happening with a PAL SNES plugged into an XRGB-mini. Can't notice any interference with a PAL GC/Wii however.
     
  3. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    Here's something fun, my SCPH-5500 PlayStation will only boot Japanese backups and originals with a Mayumi V4 installed.

    Chip from Bad_Ad84 so I'm not sure what pic it is.

    Am I going to have to buy an American PlayStation (and chip) to play NTSC stuff? lol
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2014
  4. TriMesh

    TriMesh Site Supporter 2013-2017

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    That's the boot ROM - none of the Japanese consoles except the SCPH-1000 will boot anything but Japanese discs.

    If you are running copies, you can patch the image with Japanese license data, since that's the only thing that's checked.
    If you want to run originals, then you can swap the boot ROM with a US one, use a boot disc or a cheat cartridge.

    I was told that the boot ROM patch from the OneChip works on some Japanese consoles, but I can't confirm this personally.

    Incidentally, there is another small difference between NTSC:J and NTSC:U/C consoles - the black level on the US console is set to 7.5IRE (since that's what the US NTSC spec calls for), so the same game being played on the same TV with the same settings will appear slightly brighter on a NTSC:U/C console than a NTSC:J one.
     
  5. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    Would that OneChip work in conjunction with the Mayumi V4 in theory, or would that be seperate? Might be worth trying it before I buy yet another PlayStation.

    Edit: Would swapping the boot ROM from one of my PAL units (also PU-18) be at all possible, or would that completely screw things up? I just want to achieve NTSC video that can boot Japanese and American games.

    Edit 2: Maybe I should just get a SCPH-5501 and get a Mayumi V4 for that then.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2014
  6. TriMesh

    TriMesh Site Supporter 2013-2017

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    I think you can just connect pins 1, 3, 4 and 8 and leave the others disconnected - but I haven't tried it myself.

    It will work, but obviously the boot screens and things like the memory card manager will be in PAL, so they will display in black and white unless you are using an RGB cable.

    If you are talking about the 7.5 IRE thing, then I wouldn't worry about it - firstly, it's only on the composite output, secondly you can adjust it out using the brightness control and finally it doesn't make any difference as far as playing NTSC:J and NTSC:U/C games goes - if the display setting is correct it's correct for both Japanese and US games.

    The only time it causes any noticeable effects is if you meet a rather specific set of conditions: you are using composite or S-Video, you play both PAL and NTSC games on the same TV/Monitor and that TV has 7.5 IRE setup in NTSC mode. In this case, the black levels will change between PAL and NTSC, and you will have to readjust the TV.

    If you have something like a PVM, then it will probably have a 0 IRE / 7.5 IRE option in one of the menus. In this case, you should set it to match the console (not the game) - 0 IRE for Japanese, 7.5 IRE for US.

    Again, this only matters for Composite or Y/C - it's completely irrelevant if you are using RGB.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2014
  7. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    I only use RGB for any console, thanks for clarifying. SCPH-5501 it is then I guess..
     
  8. mercuryshadow09

    mercuryshadow09 Member

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    I bought a SCPH-7501 with parallel port from an old lady who only had it for her grand-kids that apparently only played the PS2 she also sold me, except for a little dust both were in immaculate condition, and the PS2 was a fat model, both for $50.
     
  9. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    So what boot disc would I need to play American retail titles on this SCPH-5500 with Mayumi v4? I tried ImportPlayer but it just hung at the orange diamond.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
  10. NeC5552

    NeC5552 All your skullz are belong to us.

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    I know that my results are from a PAL SCPH-7502 and a (now dead until I can find a chip) PAL Xbox,but I know that on DScaler,the only difference between NTSC-U and NTSC-J is that NTSC-U has all RGB colors darker while NTSC-J has them brighter.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
  11. TriMesh

    TriMesh Site Supporter 2013-2017

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    It's a little confusing, because it's actually a change in the black level. PAL and Japanese NTSC set the black level at the same as the blanking level (I.E. nominally 0V) - US NTSC sets it 75mV above the blanking level (aka "pedestal" or "setup") - so when you take that offset off, it looks darker.

    It's mostly an issue when you display Japanese NTSC on a US TV - since the black level the Japanese console uses is "blacker than black" as far as the US TV is concerned and you lose a lot of shadow detail. The other thing is that this isn't a difference between NTSC:J and NTSC:U/C games - it's a hardware difference in the actual console. In the case of the PU-18, they have different video DACs for the different regions.
     
  12. Xan01

    Xan01 Active Member

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    Sorry for offtopic, but I figured it wouldn't be worth making another thread for this... is the output rate/GPU clock speed issue of modded PS1s also relevant for a modded PAL PS2 playing NTSC PS2 games, for instance?
     
  13. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    I believe it is, yeah.

    Also modchips need to fix the video output as a PAL machine won't play NTSC stuff automatically at NTSC and vice versa.
     
  14. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    I read that SCPH-1000 (JP S-VHS machine) can play American games with a modchip. Is there a stealth solution too? Won one for next to nothing the other day on eBay.
     
  15. master991

    master991 Enthusiastic Member

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    mayumi V1 (partial stealth), V2 (full stealth on PU7) or multimode 2.1 (partial stealth)
     
  16. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    Mayumi 2.1 I guess? I'll have to make sure it is an earlier SCPH-1000 before I order then.
     
  17. master991

    master991 Enthusiastic Member

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    you must see if your mobo is an pu7, and if your bios doesen't contain the stupid import protection like the PAL psone
     
  18. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    Later SCPH-1000 are PU8 then?
     
  19. master991

    master991 Enthusiastic Member

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  20. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    Okay so I got my SCPH-1000 today. It was dirty and the laser didn't seem too healthy.

    Upon opening it up it seemed as if the shielding had seen better days and a cap on the 100V board was blown too.

    So I get out my SCPH-1002 and pop the PSU into the SCPH-1000 and steal the shielding too. I adjust the laser intensity, bias and gain (using this guide) after swapping the KSM-440AAM with the KSM-440ACM in the SCPH-1002.

    Now it works like a charm. It was supplied with some shady discs so I attempted to load one and it did, obviously the machine is chipped. So I go to boot a US retail disc and unfortunately it dumps me back to the system menu - just like on my Mayumi V4 SCPH-5500. At first I thought maybe the chip was older and didn't support imports but that doesn't really make sense. The board appears to be an early PU-7 (1-655-322-14) too, though it does seem as if the BIOS has been updated which may be the issue here.

    [​IMG]

    I've removed the chip now.

    This thread details a similar scenario and the guy on page 3 remedied it by swapping the BIOS. It seems as if I'll have to go a similar route if I want to boot my US imports. Kinda frustrating.

    And here's a shot of my BIOS version.

    [​IMG]
     

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