Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by airs, Feb 6, 2015.
I think only a handful of people have done this mod. I myself have the correct chip but haven't messed with the mod yet.
Have you tried a different TV? That's something I would try first. I can say there is going to be no magical answer.
Can you post a pic of you board? Was planning on doing this mod to mine. Want to see if there are any similarities to pur boards.
i'm the only one to have this problem....i can't open it again now is a jap fz1 with no fan
i'll try another tv but is the same i think
Not to resurrect an old thread but I thought I'd add something
I just got an fz-10 and did the mod. And just like most, I noticed a problem with booting in 240p.
However, I had a hunch that the reason it choked was because pin 52 is normally low and we're making it high while internally it seems to be low. At least I think that's what happens.
Regardless, an easy test was to lift the pin completely instead of jumping +v to 52.
I wired a spdt switch with pin 52 to the middle and the pad to another. Then I wired +v to the other side.
In this way, it's properly done. With the switch one way, it is exactly like it was, with the other way, contact is broken with 52 and a direct connection to +v to make the pin high.
Tested it out and it worked fine booting in 240p or 480i
I'll take a picture later in case anyone is unsure.
Good find! Yeah, please post a pic.
and to you the image is centered in 240p? because to me is very at right of the tv crt...
this can be like you said eliminated by lifting the pin? idon't think
Something along these lines. I'll post a better one but this should give a general idea. I saw what you have on your page only after I started to muck around with all this. I was intent on getting it booting in 240p because I didn't realize most were living with the issue as normal.
I doubt that the problem you're having will be fixed by lifting the pin. The pin being lifted is most likely telling the video chip the correct state for progressive. Because it's not usually being lifted, the state is most likely confused.
If I was to guess, the pad is probably referenced to ground. I think I read it's internally low. So sinking current to something that's expecting ground could confused it. By lifting the pin, the pad remains to ground while the pin is high.
Your problem is completely different.
i don't have the fz10 but fz1 jap. it boot fine in 240p, only after the 3do logo, because 3do logo is showed bad, but when it load the cd èlayer 240p are there, but the windows is a lot at the right of the screen. why?
I believe others have mentioned this but the first thing I would recommend is to take a picture of the installation and post it. Without that, it's pretty hard to guess what might be the problem.
installation i sperfect. there are 2 pins, impossible to be wrong...pins are correct
I want mod my FZ-10 (RGB+240P),
but I can't find csync point, anyone can tell me?
What RGB kit have u got? What video encoder do u have? The RGB boards from Otakus should have points HS and VS. U need to connect the relevant H-sync and V-sync points from the video encoder (pin 13 and 14 on VP536 http://www.retrorgb.com/files/3DO/VP536A-VP536B_NTSC-PAL_DIGITAL_VIDEO_ENCODER.pdf)
The board will combine them into a c-sync signal.
I have a question. I got an fz 10 PAL 3do. Can i change it to ntsc 60 Hz when i disconnect the cntrl 2 pin of vp536 Chip?
I'm assuming you mean, CTRLB2. The pin should be grounded, not just disconnected to enable NTSC. It might be possible just to ground it, but you'd need verify there is a pull up resistor in place first. Otherwise, you'd have to lift the pin and then ground it.
Thanks for Response. I will test it.
I have done the Megadrive++ Mod last week on my Sega Mega Drive to Switch between the us/jap/PAL Regions. My Plan is to build something like this for the 3do.
Sorry (not really) to resurrect an old thread, but I had some minor observations to add. I recently tried the method Gorphusis mentioned on my FZ-1 (lifting pin 52 switching it between its landing and pin 55) and it worked beautifully. The console boots in 240p mode just fine. Just for reference pin 52 does not seem to normally be tied to ground (at least not according my continuity tester). The only odd behavior I noticed was that games would sometimes get locked in 240p mode and could not be toggled back to 480i by the switch.
According to the data sheet, pin 52 is tied internally to ground so the land probably doesn't have a connection. There should be a resistor near it which may be connected (I don't have a FZ-10 to test). If it is then this could be removed and a wire soldered to the pad which would avoid having to lift the leg. The pin could then be tied to 5V or GND through a 4.7k resistor.
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