Alright i have heard this is an issue for some people but it never happened to me until yesterday, i recently updated my xbox one to the newest experience update and literally right after the reboot my kinect stopped working. No amount of unplugging and restarting has fixed it, it's a launch day xbox one, i know it's probably dead but i was just checking here to see if anyone has any extra tips or trick i can try that aren't the same as all the others. The thing that baffles me is i hooked the system up almost two years ago and it hasn't moved since then and i literally never use the kinect.......Microsoft and there crappy hardware i guess.
If you are talking about the dash menu use of kinect, well it's been removed from the new dash. Microsoft say next to nobody used it and it took up resources. Noticed how much faster the new dash is? No kinect you see. I prefer it this way.
Yeah i noticed how much faster the new dash is, it's great. But what im talking about is now even though my kinect is hooked up to the xbox one it no longer is powered on, no red lights, no voice controls, etc. The xbox one acts as though the kinect isn't plug in even though it is. If i try to use say xbox fitness it tells me to plug in the kinect even though it already is.
Probably because Yakumo was saying they pretty much disabled the feature all together. So if they completely ditched the kinect then I doubt your Xbox will ever read it again.
@CandieC Does your XBOX One light dim when you plug the kinect in? If it doesn't then most likely the kinect is dead. Really though, contact Xbox Support.
I doubt it's dead.. It's a 3amp Radial TCO (thermal cut out fuse), also known as a polyfuse. This one should do the trick, better to first check continuity on the existing fuse first. Also see how many volts are going into it before buying this fuse. The Kinect does use DC-DC converters and I'm not sure if they boost and to what voltage or where sorry.. Anything 3A and over 16v should be fine but check voltages first (you may need 24v or even higher). 16v 3a> http://www.ebay.com/itm/GA19211-RGE...hash=item20e2b1d8d2:m:m-q5CKN5ogiyhalHdCBVmIw 30v 3a> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multifuse-Radial-3A-30V-/121616103848?hash=item1c50e279a8:g:Ja0AAOSwvt1WRGT4
The original fuse is 250v and 98c temp http://www.setfuse.com/product/over.../thermal-cutofftco/radial-shape/x-series.html X1 in this list, 250v version. But the fuse voltage rating is more about what the casing can handle when it's blown. As it's all pretty low voltage in there, then 250v is well over what's needed. However, I'd match up the temp rating
Sorry took me so long to get back. Yes as it turns out it's the fuse, anyone know of a site that ships to the states that has an adequate replacement?
I disagree, fuses can blow for lots of reasons. Some of which require no repair other than replacing the fuse. Put a new one in, see what happens. If it blows again there is a problem. Otherwise it's likely fine.
