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What's currently the best RGB mod for the PC Engine?

Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by FireAza, Apr 17, 2013.

  1. stalkaxe

    stalkaxe Newly Registered

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    Just ordered Viletim's board. Any recommendations for installing it in a Japanese PC Engine Duo? Still reading through the thread, but should I use an 8 or 9 pin mini-DIN, and which cable? For 9-pin mini, I imagine you wire it up to match the Genesis 2.. but what if you wire it up for 8-pin mini? Do you wire it to the connector like you would on the NESRGB to 8-pin? I'm going to a Framemeister.

    Are the (or any) instructions available online?

    Thanks for your help!
     
  2. citrus3000psi

    citrus3000psi Housekeeping, you want towel?

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    Why do you want a mini-din? I think it looks the best to replace the current 5 pin din with a 8 pin din. With this setup you'll need to make a custom cable. Console5 has 8pin din connectors and scart heads for your cable needs.
     
  3. CkRtech

    CkRtech Spirited Member

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    I second what citrus3000psi said.

    I took an 8 pin DIN and did the following to my Duo-R:
    1: Swapped the ground pins from the bottom of the original 5 pin DIN with the ones included with the 8 pin DIN. This allows for mounting the 8 PIN connector without modifying the PCB like some tutorials show.
    2: Clipped the back three additional legs as they wouldn't have a spot on the PCB. Soldered RGB to them
    3: Clipped the +5V pin from the 8 pin DIN as well. Wired up TTL sync to it.

    All changes are easily reversible should I want to restore it to factory, and I now have both CV and TTL available for sync.

    For the cable, I chopped the end off a VGA cable and added an 8 pin DIN to the end. Added a pair of female RCA audio connectors at the DIN end and used heatshrink to bind the end together. I will most likely remake the cable at some point using some high quality multi-signal coax.
     
  4. leonk

    leonk Active Member

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    I've installed the AV driver many times, heck, Tim sent me a copy months before it was avail for sale.

    It worked great until I ran into compatibility issues with XRGB mini (2 customers, 3 different AV drivers). Install confirmed good with photos sent to Tim.

    The AV driver is very sensitive where you get Vcc from. Get it from anywhere outside the exp slot and you will see strong jail bars but only on XRGB mini!

    From Exp slot or directly from 7805, and the jailbars become faint. But still there. (this is on TG16 with Tim's jail bar fix applied already)

    Strange because on PVM it looks amazing - same console. No jail bars; no video artifacts. 2 different XRGB minis with latest firmware and issues.

    Other NEC amps (like the one Mickcris sells) this doesn't happen.

    I spoke to Voultar about it and he agrees. The AV driver is too sensitive. Maybe that's why he's working on his own solution? ;)
     
  5. serge85

    serge85 Member

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    Just finished installing this rgb mod on my Duo R, I used 3.9M pull up resistors, it looks GREAT, what a nice circuit, also I notice some faint jailbars, so I applied tim's jailbars fix, and they are gone! (or at least I can't see them on my PVM).

    Very happy with these results.
     
  6. snobgamergr

    snobgamergr Spirited Member

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    I'm still struggling with this amplifier. Components on the board itself seem to be ok (resistors,capacitors,IC), as well my wiring on the scart and EXT bus on the console side. I discovered though that the 5v and gnd line on the board have continuity but not the RGB lines (input or output).
    Is this normal behavior for this board? Should I discard it and purchase an AV driver board?
     
  7. snobgamergr

    snobgamergr Spirited Member

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    So I decided to give up with this amp and ordered an AV-driver. Upon I receive it, I have to solder any specific jumper ?
    Also, this board amplifies c-sync or plain composite video?
     
  8. citrus3000psi

    citrus3000psi Housekeeping, you want towel?

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    This page has the info you seek. http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=55437

    Only amplify c-sync, if you are using comp for sync then just leave it alone.
     
  9. snobgamergr

    snobgamergr Spirited Member

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    Thanks for the link! The forum post has all the info I wanted!
    One last thing. I'll be using this externally through the expansion bus. Do I need to get the ground and 5v signal from the console side?If yes where do I solder those?
     
  10. citrus3000psi

    citrus3000psi Housekeeping, you want towel?

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    +5 and GND can be found on the bus as well.

    http://www.gamesx.com/misctech/pcebp.php
     
  11. snobgamergr

    snobgamergr Spirited Member

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    sorry I wasn't clear :) What I really meant was if I need to pass +5v and GND from the external bus of the console to the av driver
     
  12. citrus3000psi

    citrus3000psi Housekeeping, you want towel?

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    Sorry, Yes the av driver requires +5/gnd
     
  13. snobgamergr

    snobgamergr Spirited Member

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    So, I can use the ground pad of one of the rgb lines on the av driver and the +5v line that goes out of the av driver board?
     
  14. citrus3000psi

    citrus3000psi Housekeeping, you want towel?

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    All the ground pads are connected so any ground is fine. There is only one VCC pad on the AV Driver which needs to be tied to 5v from someplace on the console.
     
    snobgamergr likes this.
  15. snobgamergr

    snobgamergr Spirited Member

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    Do I still need to solder a wire on the +5v line from the av board to the +5v pin on the scart connector?
     
  16. citrus3000psi

    citrus3000psi Housekeeping, you want towel?

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    Depends on your setup. RGB TV's require voltage on the switching/blanking pins. And some auto switching scart switches need +5 to be activated. But if you are using something like a PVM/BVM/XRGB then no, +5 is not needed in the scart connector.

    When I wire customer cables, I supply voltage to the switching/blanking pins. You never know what you are going to be plugging it into in the future.
     
  17. snobgamergr

    snobgamergr Spirited Member

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    While I'm waiting for the AV driver to arrive in the mail, decided to do a quick check to determine whether or not my console has faulty RGB output, and used the simple three transistor amp that is described on mmmokney (btw the site seems to have disappeared from the WWW).
    I got the same result (screen has no red colour). This time though, I noticed that if I wiggle the cables, colours change on screen. After a little wiggling I manage to get a correct rgb screen, but only for a minute or two.

    I unplug everything, and discover that the pins on the connector are kinda dirty. I give them a really good scrub and plug my cables back. Now I get a stable RGB image! It wasn't the amp that was faulty after all...
     
  18. snobgamergr

    snobgamergr Spirited Member

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    A small update to the thread as I got the AV driver.
    Soldered the jumpers as seen on this youtube video (jump to 5:38)
    and then my wires,in an attempt to make this an enhanced external RGB cable. I apologize for the mess, I soldered everything temporally , just to verify everything is ok. R, G,B signals are represented by red,green and blue wires respectivly on I/O 2,3,4, black is gnd on I/O1 coming from pc engine. On the right side, gnd goes to the gnd line on the scart cable respectively (black wire), two cables for +5 coming,one coming from the console and another for the scart cable (brown), and two yellow wires for sync (one coming from the console, the other going to the scart cable).White and gray wires is the audio.
    20170207_205831.jpg

    when I power the console, I get this image
    (again sorry for the 16.9 ratio, it was a quick test )
    20170207_204920.jpg

    On composite, colors are normal.

    What am I doing wrong?
     
  19. Ronnie

    Ronnie Spirited Member

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    ^ looks like its missing RED.

    Now, on the spoiler driver pic above looks like a GND (black wire) and red wire are tied together, is it supposed to be that way?
     
  20. snobgamergr

    snobgamergr Spirited Member

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    No they are not tied , blame the angle I used to take the photo :)
     

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