Let's say you're given $2500 and a task to skim through craigslist/autotrader/newspapers and find the best of the best cars up for sale within a 100-mile radius of your town. You immediately disqualify anything that is: - Missing it's title - DoA (car must fire and run or no deal is done) - Being pushed out the door for hushed reasons right before it's inspection expires - Needs more work than it would ever be worth - Tricked out/customized beyond salvation - Even remotely sketchy or dishonest (aka 'RUNS GREAT! - needs engine') After finding 6 nice, versatile options with unique advantages, you can only choose one: 1995 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD Pro: Great utilitarian beater car, good on gas, can run past 250k miles with basic maintenance, excellent in snow Con: It's kind of boring Problems: Just needs a new battery Mileage: 185,000 Various Info: 2.2 L I4 (135 HP), automatic, AM/FM casette 1994 BMW 325i Pro: Versatile, truly a fine spectacle of German engineering, can run past 250k miles -if well-attended to- Con: High maintenance, high expense, many used BMWs are run into the ground until they run hot and turn into $ vacuums Problems: Runs hotter than it should for a reason the seller doesn't understand, but only in 3rd gear+. Mileage: 196,000 (danger zone) Various Info: 2.5 L V6 (189 HP), automatic (unfortunately), original head unit replaced with a nice mid-range Pioneer in the early 2000s (original has been preserved and comes with the purchase) 1966 Ford Thunderbird Pro: Beautiful classic car. Easy to work on, easy to understand. Core parts are not too expensive. Con: Bad on gas. Bad in snow. Any trim/interior/aesthetic pieces are highly sought after given it's age, and that means $$$. Not the ideal car in cities unless you have reserved parking. Problems: Body is a 6/10 (lots of rust but still easily workable), insulation is shot, a few lights on the dashboard are out, and the radio isn't working. If not garage-kept, rain will leak in and make the rust far worse. Mileage: 110,000 (sat mostly parked in a garage between 1988 and 2014 when it was purchased off of an old-timer moving to a warmer climate) Various Info: 390 4bbl V8 (315 HP), 3-speed manual, interior is beat up but still there, all stock - just worn 1985 Nissan 350ZX Pro: Classic Japanese sport coupe. Fast, lean, stylish. Con: High cost of parts, due to it's age and scarcity. Problems: Minor exhaust leak. Several gauges are flat. Occasionally has a cold start problem where you must keep the engine at a certain RPM til it warms up. A/C compressor is shot, electronics are shot for some reason Mileage: 176,000 Various Info: 3.0 L V6 (160 HP), 5-speed manual 1992 Dodge Stealth Pro: Popular car for mods. Lots of aftermarket parts. Has the potential to be very fast. Con: ECM/ECUs tend to have rotten caps. Problems: Bad head gasket. Misfire on 2 cylinders. Mileage: 135,000 Various Info: Base Model. 3.0 L V6 (164 HP), 5-speed manual, 2003 Saab Arc Turbo Pro: Safe. Durable. Really good on gas. Reasonably fast. Con: Parts/maintenance/repair work = lots of $$$ +/- lots of knowledge Problems: Bad alternator Mileage: 146,000 Various Info: 2.0 L I4 (210 HP), 6-speed Out of these 6, which would you go with, why would you go with it? Choose wisely. I would go with the 66 Thunderbird. I'll take my chances when snow hits and gas spikes, classics are the best
I'd go with that sweet 300ZX because I'm a Nissan/Japanese car fanboy. All those repairs, if done yourself, should only be $600 if its what I think it is, which is compressor, computer, and straight pipe because why not... Is this a game? Am I now supposed to make a list or something?
Good choice. All 6 of the cars I mentioned are actually a short trip away. Make a list if you want, your call. The more cars, the better.
Most these cars should be like $1000 or less. If they are all exactly $2500, I'd go with the Thunderbird. Classic, easy to work on, cool unique ride, actually worth around $2500. 300ZX with all those problems looks like a nightmare to fix. Suburu is great if it were $1000, will go forever. Beamer is trashed, don't bother. Stealth is base model and needs engine work, maybe if it were $500 or less. Saab looks ok, but it would have to be cheaper, as in $2500 after you've paid for a new alternator.
Subaru because I've driven one many a time. Fanatic drivers car plus you can change the body panels for the ports type or at least in Japan we can. Would like that Nissan too or the Bm.
Subaru because I've taken way too many risks on used cars with issues (rebuilding engines and everything.) Not once has it ended well.
Good point. Maybe I should have listed price on the list too. 3-4 of these cars were found easily for <$1500 in their current state. Know what you want, scout it out, and the price can easily go down from there. The more of the $2500 saved, the more goes into making the car nice. Here's another one worth sharing. 1956 Buick Special for $1500. Starts and runs fine. Nowhere nearly as restored as this one but in decent shape. Maybe a 7/10 of what it could be. Best of all, it's stock
Subarus need this massive timing chain maintenance that requires removing a front cover with something like 68 screws. Best to remove the engine to do it too. Cheap car I would say get a grandpa car aka the car grandpa had when he died an no one wants it. Oldsmobiles, etc. Anything performance will need expensive tires or parts.
This is accurate. I currently use an Oldsmobile as a daily driver. Grandpa cars are the ultimate in dependability. Buick is also a good contender. Go to an auction. Does it have unusually low miles? Does it have all the extra bells & whistles? Is it beige, silver, or perhaps maroon? Congratulations, you've found a solidly dependable $500 grandpa car. Get it. It won't let you down unless you let it down first.
