You so should! Which Skyline? If it's a R31 Turbo C or R32 I'd say to buy it harder than you've ever bought something before!
Hex are you going to take her to the track, because I suggest you do? When I'm on the track there is something peaceful about it. Its just you and your car, and for the duration nothing else matters. Its quite strange. I've got an integra Type R that I beat on. Here's some spectator view of a 3 mile road course here in the states. I'm driving the second car in the video with the black hood.
Nice, I've have good luck with RWD launches too, as long as it's dry out, heheh. How is your car in the rain? I find I have to drive like a freakin grandma if I don't want to end up sideways everywhere, I don't think I have a standard LSD though, my buddy mentioned something about clutch packs that lock the diff under load. Great fun in the dry, freakin lame in the rain. Very deep notes, I can feel the engine in my chest when decelerating and it gets to like 2,000RPM. You can also feel the engine throughout the RPM range, when sitting in the car at idle it reminds me of those classic muscle cars, being able to feel every time the pistons fire. How does your car sound? You should make a video (with sound) or something of it running. Would be cool to hear I'll have to create a thread, I have some pics of the parts going in so far. When I get it back I'll take more pics, then pics of any progress (not a ton to do, just little things)
Good choice! There's a lot of prep involved for track use, I have no intentions to take it on the track at all. It's purpose is just street use. I haven't driven the Supra in pouring rain with my new tyres, I did with my previous tyres and was fucking scary. They were really bad cheap incorrect sized tyres, so I took so damn careful getting home. Sounds so good! I want a deeper note in idle mainly, high RPM the car does scream but not to the point where it pisses people off around you I do have a video of me revving the Supra at around 5x1000 RPM - I'll need to do another one at 7x1000, that's when the car is pretty damn loud. It's an old video however, can see my old tyres and faded plastic ------------------------------------------------------ 3/03/2016 I'm without the Supra again it's back in the shop for it's handbrake cables to be installed after 3 weeks of shipping time from Japan. Also the alternator will be getting inspected incase it was to blame for the dead battery in 3 days of sitting.
Handbrake cables and distributor o-ring were replaced. However, it didn't go smoothly. The mechanic who I always ask for and speak to hasn't been there for a few days, so 'others' worked on my Supra. They've fucked up something... On my way home, I pulled up to the second set of lights the car's idle just went from smooth to rough. So I started reving the engine at the lights, which luckily there were no police beside me... I believe the term is misfiring, but I might be wrong. I just knew something was up. When I was close to home, I floored the car on a straight - not only did it barely pick up in power, it started to lose some then gain some. Nobody was home in terms of power... So I got home rather pissed off, as I've been missing the car so much in the past week. Asked a group of Supra owners and they likely said it's water either in the spark plugs or the in the dizzy. I have a hunch it's the dizzy since that was the last thing that was touched by the mechanics. Called the shop and told the owner what I noticed - he said he'll send some people down to take a look as I mentioned I'm not comfortable driving it on the road incase it cuts out. Theory is, if it was water it might dry out by morning and the car will be fine. If not, then the install for the o-ring was poor. Sadly if I get the run around with this mechanic, I'll just take it to a specialist - I was referred to the specialist by the Supra group and he's only 15 minutes away. I have a feeling it's also better if I take it him after it gets looked at by the current shop I take it to, there might be more wrong then I'm aware of.
Weird..you wouldn't think they would fuck up a distributor o-ring install.. I wonder, how old are the spark plug wires? I've had it where mine were all old, I decided to change the plugs, then my car started running like crap. Turns out just me moving around the plug wires was enough to help the insides disintegrate to the point of not working right. Wouldn't really explain why it ran fine until the second light though.. Or maybe the distributor wasn't secured properly and it went a tad out of timing once you started driving? Just some thoughts, hopefully the mechanic is good about it and rights their wrong.
I started it this morning, ran smoothly until 15 minutes of sitting idle. I'm really concerned about it, likely to be a timing issue then.
So it started running smooth at first start again? Shouldn't be timing then, if it was timing it wouldn't be running smooth then running rough, once it's out of timing it should stay like that until it's adjusted. Is it a temperature thing? Does it start happening right when it gets to running temperature or anything?
Check for vac leaks, or something the people unplug and forgot to plug back in. The car runs in open loop when cold. Once the car has warmed up to certain temp, it switches over to closed loop. In closed loop the ecu uses O2 values to help determine how much fuel to dump in. Pretty much at start up when the car is cold, the ecu dumps extra fuel. This can make a car seem to idle fine. Once the ecu starts to lean out the fuel mixture, you can notice problems. Is the idle surging up and down once warmed up? You said lack of power, which does point to a timing problem, but you can only change the static timing so much with a dizzy.
I took it back to the shop, and the mechanic who usually works on my car was back today. I got a call from him this morning and he told me that the spark plugs were gone, which looked like they haven't been changes in ages he said.. I drove it for a bit today as I had to run back to the shop since the steering wheel horn pad wasn't on properly. There was a metal plate which just wasn't sitting right, so swapped it out of my old horn pad and into the new one. Car always has it's power now and not shaking like crazy on idle. This place had me running up and down with these issues and not that happy with the results really. Everything should be checked, and done right before picking up the car. So it's definitely going to the specialists guy who knows all about the Supra backwards. Well he mainly deals with imports. --------------------------------- 9/03/2016 Top half of the rear seat got swapped out with a much better one: Old New: Same with the steering wheel: Old: New:
Thx Hex, I want a car now too. Dint expected to read your whole Diary but I did read most of it sofar. Any plans on trowing in a random xbox?
Looking Goood! Hex, did the mechanic replace the plug wires as well? If the plugs were that bad, chances are the plug wires are just as old and replacing them would be a good idea.
Cheers! I'm happy to don't have to see that burnt out foam in my rear view mirror again Likely not, I didn't see it on the bill. It's something I'm going to talk to the 2JZ specialist about and verify if everything is done correctly. Any how, I haven't shared a full body shot of the car lately - it was pissing down rain for the rest of the day though
HA! But yeah, if it's installed correctly it MAY help but I doubt anyone will steal it.. Not saying it's not worth stealing just there are less stock things out there that get more attention of grubby mits.. Get a decent 3G GPS tracker, one that has a built in battery (the ones in the extruded aluminium cases not the old people trackers) and scrub the name off the casing and hide it in the door or roof lining if it fits (make sure how hot it gets). You can configure then to operate relays via SMS, handy if you lock the keys in the car (requires a password and mobile number on the white list)
I currently don't want to make the alternator work harder than it should for a GPS tracker. Plus I'll need a SIM inside it to track, which will cost more money. If I was working I'd very likely do what you mentioned but in doing so it's likely going to cost more in the long run, especially if it strains the alternator more than my current alarm. It's similar to installing larger amps and subs, beginners never upgrade the alternator and cause loads of strain.
