Can this saturn be saved ?

what is under that little piece of duct tape in your first picture?

 

For a quick test, you can just remove it and see if the console powers up. It's just there to absorb supply transients. And yes, the fact that it's blown up makes it seem very likely that the console was connected to 220. I've seen that lots of times, since HK uses 220V and many of the consoles are imported 100V Japanese units.

 

Nothing ! The tape was there with no function.

 

I was going to desolder it and replace it together with a new fuse.
Is it ok to desolder it and power on ? Isn't this a part that takes a blow after the fuse ?

 

It's a surge suppressor, so as long as there aren't any big mains spikes while you are testing, it shouldn't cause a problem. I would certainly replace it if you intend to run the unit for an extended period of time. The reason it blew up in the first place was because it saw the 220 as being a 100% overvoltage and started to pull a lot of current.

 

Ok thanks i'll order some stuff from ebay and post in a couple of days.

 

Is the varistor (and the fuse) the only thing that blows if a 110v power supply is plugged into 220v? I have a power supply that suffered that too, and it blows the fuse every time I power it on even with 110v, so, same symptoms, and last time I checked the varistor was cracked, so probably the same way to fix it too.

What type of/value varistor should be used as a replacement?

 

I am ordering a varistor 14d221k

Used this movie

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzzR4CZbfiY&list=HL1397830625

 

It's probably the most common part after the fuse. I use the Panasonic ERZV14D201 - but that's only because I have a box of them and they are rated for 130VAC withstand.

Another part that's worth checking is the input filter cap (typically 100uF or 68uF, 200V) - even in the short period of time it takes for the fuse to blow, it can have got very hot or even vented. I've also seen a few of them that blew up the rectifier or the switching FET, but this is pretty unusual.

 

So a varistor rated for ~110v (+/-10%) is what I should replace it with?

How to check that filter cap, I only have a multimeter that can check voltage, ersistance, amperage, continuity, but not caps.

 

You want to replace it with one that has an operating voltage that's slightly higher than the maximum you will ever expect to see. So for a nominal 120V supply like the one in the US, you really want at least 120V+10%, so 132V. If you use one that is rated for the nominal line voltage, then it might pull significant current if the line voltage is a bit high. So 110V is probably too low - in fact, 130V is probably a bit low for US stuff, but works fine with 110V stepdowns.

Easiest check for a bad cap if you don't have anything to test it with is by looking for 100Hz (or 120Hz) interference on the audio and video outputs - if you see it, and changing the cap fixes it, then the cap was bad - if you get similar interference but at 50 or 60Hz, then it's most likely that one of the diodes in the bridge has failed open circuit.

IF you have a scope, you could also just look at the DC outputs for the power supply and look for low frequency ripple. If you have a scope, an isolation transformer and a disregard for personal safety you could also directly monitor the voltage across the HV cap - but this is only recommended if you are familiar with working with circuits that are directly connected to the line.

 

OK, so the varistor rating is essentially the highest spike it allows to go through, so I should use something little higher than the nominal input of the power supply / machine. Sounds logical.

I don't have a scope, I only have a multimeter, that's why I asked how to detect bad caps with that. I think the most I could do was to check resistance in the cap and see that it changes over time as I'm measuring it, but I don't know if that indicates anything.

 

That will tell you if it's completely dead or not - if you short out the cap and then connect the meter across it on ohms, the resistance reading will start low, and then increase -the period of time it takes is proportional to the size of the cap, but also dependent on the amount of current your meter uses, so really only useful for relative tests.

 

Update

I removed the varistor.







I don't have the balls to turn the saturn on.
Ordering new varistor(s).
These will do ?

http://www.ebay.nl/itm/360141005620?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

Electrically, that looks fine - mechanically, it seems to be quite a bit bigger than the original, so you might want to check the clearance.

The original part seems to be ERZV05D221 from the Panasonic ZNR series:

http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf/AWA0000/AWA0000CE2.pdf

So also rated for 140VAC - but only 800A rather than 4500A

Edit: Note that the original part may not be available any more because it doesn't seem to be RoHS

 

Ok
So that is no good.
Any suggestions from your part for buying varistors for USA saturn ? European ebay seller prefered .

 

You can use it with no problems, as long as it will fit. Having a higher peak current rating is not a bad thing.

I can't find an exact replacement on ebay, but digikey have the exact original part:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ERZ-V05D221/P7182-ND/137246

 

Will i am waiting on parts i saw 1.6 A 250 V printed on the psu . Is it a pal psu ? And what for test can i do with my multimeter.

 

EDIT it is model :35m10U yamaha corp

 

That's the fuse rating.

Yamaha 35M10U should be a ~110v power supply.